Throwback Thursday 1/? 

everyone always says that the word Q is too early in the alphabet and should be further back with all the "weirdo"s and "freak"s. but take a look at this -> p q. They're twin brothers. Would you seperate twin brothers? Just because one is a little artistic?

If your life is horrible and you need a new source of meaning and direction.... Do NOT find religion. Learn to identify plants.

I must not reply. Replying is the mind killer. Replying is the little death that brings total annihilation. I will let people have their wrong opinions. And I will permit people to comment them on my posts. Their wrongness will pass over me and through me. When it is gone only I will remain. And I will not reply.

© (SCAN) cr: njmsjmdct2 | TWICE MONOGRAPH Formula of Love

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s k i n c a r e 1 0 1

this post will go over basic information like skin type and how to determine it as well as more in depth info about types of cleansers, moisturisers and sunscreen, how to choose and apply them. Whether you should incorporate toners, essences, serums, masks, or exfoliants into your skincare routine and what to look for in them. As well as some more general lifestyle tips and what kinds of products you should be using at your current age or consider getting in the future.

To determine skin type

Wash your face and let it air dry .

If it feels tight and itchy you have dry skin . You may also see fine lines or flakes on your skin .

If your skin is oily you’ll have more visible pores and your skin will be shiny . This skin type is usually prone to acne , black heads , and white heads .

If it feels tight in certain places or has large pores in some areas but not others. If you notice aspects of both skin types on different parts of your face. Congratulations you have combination skin .

If none of these apply to you and your face doesn’t feel oily or dry then you've got normal skin .

Some people view sensitive as a skin type , I personally don't. Sensitivity can be developed or be sensitive in combination with another skin type .

As you age your skin tends to become thinner and dryer.

cleanse

The types of cleansers

Micellar water - tiny oil molecules suspended in soft water which attract oil and dirt . Especially recommended for those with sensitive skin .

Foam - start out as gel or cream and lather to foam and removes all excess oil from the skin . Which is good for combination skin

Gel - similar to foam cleanser. Good for acne prone or oily skin

Lotion - because of their consistency they’re less stripping thus suitable for sensitive dry skin

Balm - if you wear a lot of makeup, especially if your makeup is waterproof this is for your . Rub the balm over your face . They also have hydrating benefits which makes them perfect for dry skin .

Oil Based - contrary to popular belief oily skin types can use oil cleansers without fear of side effects. They remove dirt without disturbing your skin barrier or drying out your skin .

Clay - draw out all excess oils and toxins from your skin . Not suitable for dry skin as it may be overly stripping but are perfect for sensitive oily or combination .

Wipes - requires no real explanation . You just wipe your skin with the little disposable cloth .

How to use them

wash your hands so you don’t transfer more germs onto your face , that would defeat the purpose of cleansing

Wet your face

Now rub the cleanser of choice between your hands . You only need a pea to a blueberry amount . Some will foam , others will cream , and then there are those that won’t really do anything.

Rub the cleanser gently in circular motions all over your face . Emphasis on the gentle part . Use your pointer and middle finger and imagine you’re washing someone else’s face .

You should do this for no more than a minute , any longer could be stripping to your skin

If your skin is super dry you can use a cleanser once a day so you don’t over strip your skin . cleanse with product at night to get rid of all the impurities picked up during the day and in the morning all you did was sleep in a clean room in a clean bed . That doesn’t mean don’t wash your face in the morning . You should still be using water to wash your face . Not just rinsing , actually wash your face .

If you don’t have this issue you can try double cleansing . This is when you cleanse first with an oil based cleanser then with a water based cleanser . We double cleanse because not all impurities are water soluble . Double cleansing helps to thoroughly cleanse your skin . This method works well if you wear a lot of thick , heavy makeup . Bear in mind that it would be too stripping to double cleanse every day , twice a day. if you really want to double cleanse every night and you’re hydrating your skin well afterwards there should be no problem .

Protect

After cleansing you need to protect your skin . During the day you protect it with sunscreen and during the night you use a moisturiser . I have really dry skin so I use a moisturiser in the morning as well .

A rule of thumb don’t mix your sunscreen and moisturiser ( or any of your skincare products ) layer them .

Sunscreen

There are two number values on the bottle PA and SPF.

SPF stands for sun protection factor, refers to how long protection lasts and protects you from uv rays that cause sunburn. Generally SPF 15 blocks 93% of UV rays and SPF 30 blocks about 97%. Spf that is too high isn’t good for your skin but ideally you want to use spf50 when going outdoors.

PA protects you from uv rays that accelerates aging. Here you want to focus on the number of plus signs on the bottle as they indicate the effectiveness of the product.

Even with sunscreen it’s still advised you stay out of direct sunlight for long periods of time. So wear a hat if you can’t avoid it .

Types of Sunscreen

Chemical - are absorbed into your skin and turn uv rays into energy before they can hurt your skin . Sensitive skin may want to stay away from this type as it could cause a bad reaction . Don’t rule chemical sunscreen out completely though. It may have been one bad brand or ingredient . Note this sunscreen needs to be applied first as it has to penetrate your skin .

Physical - sits on top of your skin and act like a shield from uv rays which means it needs to be applied last . Because they sit on your skin they’re thicker and tend to leave a cast so people with darker skin may prefer chemical sunscreen .

Powder and spray - is more of a reapplication than a primary sunscreen . The idea is you use your physical or chemical sunscreen and every two hours you reapply a powder or spray sunscreen .

How to use sunscreen

Cleanse

Dot a teaspoon amount of sunscreen all over your face (and body)

Gently massage it into your skin . I’ll say that again : Gently , gently massage

Reapply every two hours

If you wear makeup it’s best to apply physical sunscreen over makeup as you’ll have to do so anyway when you reapply .

Moisturiser

Types of moisturisers

Humectants - attract water and slow down evaporation usually comes in gel formulas . They absorb into the skin quickly making them best for oily skin types .

Emollients - fills the gaps between skin with hydrating oils and lipids . These have a light cream or lotion consistency . This type best for dry or combination skin .

Occlusives - seals in moisture and stops it from evaporating . They come in thick creams and balms . Perfect for dehydrated , dry , mature skin .

How to apply moisturiser

Cleanse face and apply chemical sunscreen if using

Then apply moisturiser , a pea to blueberry sized amount

Dab it all over your face

Soothe each up and across your face in circular motions

Again be very gentle using your middle and forefingers

These are the foundations of skincare. Consider the next sections only after you have these first three covered.

Treat

Between cleansing and protecting comes a treatment step. this can be with a toner , essence , serum , exfoliation, and masks . All of the above if your skin can handle it. Layer them from lightest to thickest consistency and exfoliate after cleansing.

Masks, toners, essences, and serums are infused with nutrients, antioxidants, and vitamins chosen to treat specific skin concern . I have a section on ingredients to treat skin concerns at the end. When comparing products look at the similarities and differences between their ingredient lists. The order or products is usually from highest to lowest concentration.

Remember an ingredient or product that someone else swears by may not work well for your skin . this step requires trail and error, time and money . Consistent cleansing, moisturiser and sunscreen should fade most concerns so don’t fret over a treatment if you can’t afford to.

If any product you have doesn’t work for you , don’t waste the product and throw it away . You could give it to a friend with a similar skin concern to see if it works better for them .

Toner

Watery consistency , the lightweight helping it absorb into the skin quickly . Applied with cotton pad after double cleansing to hydrate and restore the PH of skin .

If the toner is exfoliating put a couple drops on a cotton pad, don’t drown it, and pass the pad once across your face.

If the toner is hydrating put a couple dots on your palm and gently pat the toner into your skin. If you need more than one layer feel free to repeat this process no more than 7 times

Essence

As hydrating and fast absorbing but thicker than toners. However they're less concentrated than serums.

Application is the same as a hydrating toner but 7 layers would be excessive, 2 to 3 should be enough.

Serum

Usually comes in a dropper . Even if you’ve double cleansed it’s imperative that the dropper doesn’t touch your face to ensure bacteria won’t contaminate the dropper and by extension the serum . Once you’ve applied the serum gently massage the liquid into your skin .

Masks

Types of masks

Using a mask once or twice a week is beneficial but remember it’s not necessary . As long as you cleanse and protect you'll be fine

sheet

Works for all skin types . There are two variations of sheet masks . The first type is a cotton mask drenched in serum or essence . The second is a jelly-like sheet infused with ingredients . Sheet masks are extremely hydrating but the ingredients infused will determine the benefits .

Clay

If you have oily skin this one is for you . It’s a combination of water , clay , and minerals that determine the properties and absorb all excess oils from your skin . For this reason it’s best to stay away from this mask if your skin is already dry .

Charcoal

These masks are best used as spot treatments for breakouts as they help soothe inflammation . Charcoal helps remove excess oils as well .

Cream

This category is for wash off masks that don’t fit into the above categories . As previously stated the ingredients determine the benefits of a mask .

Overnight

As the name suggests you put it on before bed and it works while you’re asleep . What makes an overnight mask different from a night cream are the active ingredients .

Peel off

People with sensitive skin proceed with caution . This mask will literally peel the dead skin from your face . So sensitive skin types be careful . These have no active ingredients because they’re used for exfoliating than treating .

Exfoliate

This is when you remove dead skin cells. However it is not recommended if you have any kind of skin condition like acne, eczema, etc . The most important thing is that you cleanse and protect but exfoliation can remove dry dull skin and improve circulation

Types of exfoliation

Physical : sugar scrubs , clay masks , gommage peeling , dry brushing , sponges , and cloths rubbed onto the skin in circular motions

Chemicals: like AHAs ( alpha hydroxy acids ) that’ll break the bonds holding the dead skin onto your face or BHAs ( beta hydroxy acids ) . PHAs have larger particles and work best on thinner skin. LHA is a milder BHA perfect for acne prone skin .

Oily and dry skin types would benefit from physical exfoliation but if your skin is sensitive avoid rubbing into it harshly . To avoid irritation stick to a mild chemical exfoliant . AHAs followed by cleanser and moisturiser would be perfect for dry skin . if your skin is normal or combination you'll have to experiment with both chemical and physical exfoliants. A general rule is that chemical exfoliation is gentler and therefore better . You should never be too rough with your skin .

Common skin concerns and ingredients

acne

Benzoyl peroxide, 5% for face and 10% for body

Salicylic acid

Clindamycin (with BP)

Azeliac acid

Retinol/retinoids

pigmentation

SUNSCREEN

hydroquinone

Azelaic acid

Vitamin C

Kojic acid

Retinoid creams

Caffeine creams

Steroid creams

Superficial chemical peels

Laser resurfacing

scarring

High strength retinoid creams

Deep chemical peels

Laser resurfacing

Microneedling

If thick scars, steroid injections

Subcision/ filler for depressed scars

redness

Aloe vera

Niacinamide

Chamomile

Resveratrol

Licorice

Sodium sulfacetamide

Sulfur products

Azeliac acid

Bromelain

flaky dry skin

ceramides

Mineral oil

Petrolatum

Hyaluronic acid

Vitamin E

Selenium sulfide

Zinc pyrithione

Ketoconazole

Ciclopirox

Steroid creams/solutions

ideal skincare routine at based on age

- 15

mild cleanser

spf50 sunscreen

Moisturiser

15 - 18

At this stage there’s no need to worry about premature ageing

but you might consider incorporating an acne treatment

Or a hydrating sheet mask twice a week

19 - 24

You may notice dark circles or eye bags that require an eye cream

And consider an exfoliant or vitamin c to brighten dull skin or prevent fine lines

25 - 30

You want to focus on hydrating your skin to keep it soft and supple

And incorporating anti aging into your skincare through antioxidants and damage preventing treatments

31 +

You may notice your skin begin to notice sagging, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation

Thus choose lifting and firming products, anti wrinkle treatments, and ingredients that fade dark spots

Sun protection and hydration are absolutely crucial at this stage

lifestyle habits to incorporate

Correct any vitamin deficiencies and hormonal imbalances

Make sure you do not overeat especially on processed carbs and sugars or under eat to the point of lacking essential nutrients

Be sure to drink enough water throughout the day, the golden rule is 8 glasses a day

You may need to adjust your skincare routine depending on the season eg. Cold dry winter air may leave your skin needing more hydrating products while sweating more in the summer may lead to acne

Keep a regular sleep schedule of 7-9 hours a night on a silk pillowcase as the reduced friction can help prevent fine lines and change your pillowcases once a week to prevent bacteria build up

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my favorite junji ito panel

Okay so Victorian erotica is literally the most heinous, morally bankrupt, horrific shit I've ever read - but I've read a fair bit, partly from historical interest but also because a while back I helped a friend with a university project she was doing about censorship and pornography in 19th century England.

Anyway I need to share with you all the most hilarious line that has ever been written, circa 1887:

“What if I write it and it’s bad-”

WHAT IF YOU WRITE IT AND ITS GOOD? WHAT IF YOU WRITE IT AND ITS EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANTED? WHAT THEN????

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LISA Pink Venom (2022)

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