Odd Question. But Can You Post A Closeup On Your Personal Preference On How To Hold A Knocked Arrow When

From top to bottom:

LeMat Revolver

Volcanic Repeating Pistol

“Artillery” Luger

All beautifully engraved and adorned in an ornate, Art Deco style. I’m unsure who the engraver is or was. 

Hunting Sword of Prince Camillo Borghese

Swordsmith: François Pirmet (French, Paris, recorded 1779–1818)

Goldsmith: Antoine-Modeste Fournera (French, Paris, documented 1806–17)

Dated: 1809–13

Culture: French, Paris

Medium: Silver-gilt, steel, leather, mother-of-pearl

Measurements: Weight with scabbard, 1 lb. 10 oz. (737 g) Length with scabbard, 27 in. (68.58 cm) Length of sword, 25 7/16 in. (64.59 cm) Length of blade, 19 ¾ in. (50.17 cm) Length of scabbard, 21 3/8 in. (54.28 cm) Greatest width of hilt, 4 5/8 in. (11.73 cm) Greatest width of blade, 1 3/16 in. (3 cm)

Provenance: Ex. Coll.: Borghese, Rome; Frederick Gallatin; Albert Gallatin; James P. Gallatin

In addition to the traditional hunting motifs, the decoration includes (on the back of the guard) the monogram of Camillo Borghese (1775–1832), Napoléon’s brother-in-law, who served the French cause in Italy. The scabbard is engraved with Pirmet’s name and his title, “gunmaker to His Majesty, the King of Westphalia,” in reference to Napoleon’s brother Jérôme Bonaparte.

Source: © 2000–2013 The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Balenciaga SS 06

Rapier with Scabbard

Dated: 1575-1583

Geography: made in Dresden, Saxony, Germany, Europe

Medium: engraved steel [blade]; blackened iron, pierced and engraved silver, wood, silver wire [hilt]; pierced and engraved silver, wood, leather [scabbard]

Measurements: pommel: 2 ½ × 2 13/16 inches (6.3 × 7.1 cm); blade: 11/16 × 42 3/8 inches (1.8 × 107.6 cm); width (quillons): 9 15/16 inches (25.2 cm); depth: 5 13/16 inches (14.8 cm); scabbard: 2 ½ inches × 7/8 inches × 3 feet 2 ½ inches, 8.1 ounces (6.4 × 2.3 × 97.8 cm, 230g)

The blade of the sword was made by bladesmith Andrea Ferrara, Italian (active Belluno), active 1550 - 1583. The sword features silver mounts of rapier and scabbard probably by silversmith Wendel unter den Linden, German (active Dresden), active 1566 - 1593, died before 1610.

Source: Copyright © 2016 Philadelphia Museum of Art

Worked on a few file blades today! The bottom 4 are done and ready for sheaths! If you’d like one message me here or visit my etsy shop. The largest one on the bottom is $55 not including shipping and the others three are $45. The top ones will get a twine wrap and epoxied like the others.

Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LunarLightForge

Thanks everyone!!

Dress, 1890-1900.

Source

These are all the characters I designed for Spera: Ascension of the Starless Vol 1 (now available in stores: Amazon/bookstores etc). Enjoy!

DIY Outlander Inspired Cosplay Pattern Series by American Duchess for Simplicity 

If you’ve been looking for affordable sewing patterns for 18th century Cosplay dresses or a pattern for a corset, this is the post for you. These are patterns for beginners, and all notions needed for these garments can be found at fabric stores.

The pattern sizes range from Size 6 to Size 22.

What’s included in the 2 patterns?

With the restrictions on the patterns - things like tissue size and complexity/length of instructions - we came up with two pattern packets that work together: the underpinnings packet with a chemise, bum pad, and stays; and the ensemble packet with a gown, petticoat, bodice, and stomacher.

You can find the American Duchess’ post on her Outlander Inspired Cosplay Patterns here. 

Also, the Amercian Duchess’ now has a series of Outlander Pattern Hacks posted here. The pattern hack series already has several posts (including one on corset stays), and will eventually include:

Hand-stitched eyelets instead of metal grommets

Creating robings and closing the bodice with pins

Interior lacing, buttons, and other bodice closures

Drafting and applying a 1740s winged cuff

Redrawing bodice seams and stays boning patterns

Drafting skirting for the bodice, to create a jacket

Extending the front edges for a center front closure

Setting sleeves with the 18th century method

18th c. hand stitching techniques for finishing edges and sewing seams

Fitting through the side back seams the mantua maker’s way

Proper silhouette through bum pads, petticoats, and more petticoats

Binding and facing the stays with chamois leather

Proper materials - wool, linen, cotton, silk

How the heck to get dressed

What’s Included in the Outlander Simplicity Patterns?

Simplicity Pattern 8161 can be found here. The pattern costs $12.57 and consists of:

Misses’ 18th century highland costumes includes outfits in two styles: the first is a gown with stomacher and petticoat, and the second is a bodice with petticoat and stomacher. 

You can find the FREE CROCHET Pattern for the Highlander Crochet Cowl here.

Simplicity Pattern 8162 can be found here. This pattern also costs $12.57 and consists of:

chemise, bum pad, and lined corset.

Handmade Swords - Earil

By Peter Lyon of Weta Workshop

Edition Size: 1

Measurements: blade length 915mm (36"); overall length 1217mm (48"); weight 1.94Kg (4 pounds 4 ounces); balance point 71mm (2.8") along the blade, measured from the shoulder of the blade

The sword has been made especially for the Weta Cave and Weta’s Online Shop to sell to the public. It is similar to late medieval European longswords, but with design flourishes transform it into a piece of art as well. A longsword is light enough and balanced to be used with one hand, but it can also be used two handed for powerful cutting blows. The blade is broad for much of its length, making for strong cuts, but comes to an acute point for effective thrusts, making this a true cut-and-thrust sword.

The individual parts have shapes and detail lines that blend into each other and continue into the next component, so that shapes continue even as the materials change, and the shapes of all the hilt parts draw the eye towards the diamond shaped bosses in the centre of the grip, filled with polished Paua (New Zealand abalone) shell each side. At the same time there is a strong central line through the hilt and along the blade, emphasising the straight and symmetrical shapes of the sword.

This sword has many nautical features which led me to the name, “Aearil”, which in Elvish means “Gleaming Ocean”.

The straight blade is ground from spring steel bar, and has been heat treated to give the best possible combination of toughness and edge hardness. Historically blades were forged into shape and to remove flaws in the steel, but the consistency and high specifications of modern steels mean this is no longer necessary.

The bevelled edge is blunted for safety and display, but could just as easily be sharpened for cutting tests. The tang of the blade is strong and wide, and passes through the cross guard, grip and pommel, and is peened over the end of the pommel for maximum strength.

The cross guard is cut from a block of mild steel. From the centre block it projects along the blade and towards the ends, which are split into a fork. This is an unusual feature which I don’t recall being used on a sword before. The cross is set onto the shoulders of the blade for extra strength and stability, as was done on medieval European swords to prevent the cross becoming loose and rattling through use.

The grip is made of beech wood, covered with leather. Thin cords under the leather create the designs, and the leather has been carefully tooled to fit into all the shapes created by the cords. The grip was mostly drilled out then fitted by heating the tang and burning out the remaining wood for a tight fit, and finally glued in place. It is a two handed grip; the foregrip is straight to give a strong gripping surface, while the waisted shape of the upper grip encourages the second hand to nestle into the inside curves of the pommel.

The mild steel pommel is also a counterweight for the blade. It is shaped somewhat like a fish tail, with curved and recessed faces to add interesting shapes, and also to remove weight and get the best possible balance for the sword overall. The pommel was set tight onto the tapering tang before the end was peened over.

Source: Copyright © 2016 Weta Ltd.